Eastside Stories

A Port on the Lake

BY margaret Laliberte, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Growth on the Eastside during the first half of the 20th century was possible only because of the motley assortment of boats, from small launches to sizeable steamers and double-ended ferries, that serviced numerous docks between Juanita and Newcastle and on Mercer Island. Many may have heard of John Anderson, who built up something of an empire, certainly a monopoly, his little steamers and launches linking Seattle with Eastside landings and wharves.  A story perhaps lesser known is that during that period public entities created public ferry systems on the lake.  Between 1901 and 1950 the relationship between public and private groups ricocheted between bare-knuckle competition and close intertwining rife with conflict of interest, as various arrangements and systems were experimented with. The concept of a ferry system as a public utility was evolving.  It fit in with the Progressive political movement popular in the state in the early 20th century, but its parameters remained unclear.

As early as 1892 John Anderson was running the ‘Winnifred’ between Leschi and Newcastle. (He was not the first or only operator on the lake.)   Over the years he bought and sold vessels and eventually began building them as well.  In 1900 the King County commissioners bought a ferry, the ‘King County of Kent,’  from Moran Brothers shipyards in Seattle. However, rather than operate the boat itself, within a few months the county leased it for three years to Bartsch and Tompkins Transportation Company (which operated a shipyard at Houghton that eventually became the Lake Washington Shipyards.) That decision precipitated a lawsuit; it wasn’t yet at all clear just what public ownership and operation of a ferry system ought to entail.  It might be acceptable for public funds to be used to buy boats, but some groups believed the operation should be left to private enterprise. Eventually the state Supreme Court upheld the county’s contract.  Meanwhile, King County purchased several docks around the lake for ferry use, beginning with those at Madison Park and Kirkland.  Over the next few years it added ones at Mercer Slough, Juanita, Newport, Medina, and Kennydale.

L 75.0106b - Ferry ‘King County’ at the Kirkland dock, about 1910. She was the first double-ended ferry on Lake Washington

L 75.0106b - Ferry ‘King County’ at the Kirkland dock, about 1910. She was the first double-ended ferry on Lake Washington

In 1906 Anderson incorporated the Anderson Steamboat Co., and in November of that year he merged it with the Bartsch and Tompkins company. As manager of the new company, Anderson inherited the ‘King County‘ lease along with several boats that B&T had built, owned and operated. A year later Anderson bought Bartsch and Tompkins’ Houghton shipyard and renamed it Anderson Shipyard.

In 1908 the ‘King County’ became derelict and sank near Houghton.  However, the county was having a new ferry, the ‘Washington,’ built. Until it could be launched, the county contracted with Anderson to run his own boats, for a monthly “subsidy” of $300, on the ‘King County’s’ route. (This was a significant improvement for Anderson: the county’s lease for the “King County’ had provided a monthly payment of $200.) He was to run three round trips daily between Kirkland and Madison Park and charge “regular fares.”  In future years, whenever the ‘Washington’ was out of service, Anderson would step in with his own boat.  (Controversy continued over how much he ought to be paid. In 1911, for example, when the ‘Washington’ was out of service for repairs, Anderson charged the county $800 for the use of his ‘Dorothy’ and a scow for a month on the Madison Park-Kirkland run.)

The ‘Washington’ was launched in early May.  Meanwhile the county set the new fares.  Foot passengers—and sheep—each paid 10 cents one-way, car and driver 25 cents.  Commuting school children got 20 trips for $1.00. 

By Fall public support for the new ferry and its service appeared in the newspapers.  Writers noted that fares and freight charges had been much reduced and the number of daily runs increased. One writer noted that the county had saved the bonus it would have paid Anderson for “the worst attempt at service it was possible to imagine.”  Meanwhile, Anderson continued to build up his fleet of lake steamers.  The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition was coming next year, and he would be ready to offer lake excursions on his fleet of 14 boats.  Once the AYPE was over, he was able to buy boats that a competitor, Interlaken Steamship Co., had lost to its creditors.

2013.046.092 - Rubie Sharpe’s ticket on Interlaken SS Co, “Meydenbauer Bay Route”

2013.046.092 - Rubie Sharpe’s ticket on Interlaken SS Co, “Meydenbauer Bay Route”

1911 brought a major development: in March the state legislature enacted the Port District Act. It authorized a county’s voters to establish a local port district to develop and operate waterways, wharves, railroad and water terminals and ferry systems. King County activists, fed up with the stranglehold the railroad companies had over the waterfront on Elliott Bay, rushed to draft legislation for the September election.  It was adopted, the county-wide Port of Seattle was created, the first such port in the state.  Port commissioners were named who set to work to create a plan for projects and financing, to be presented to the voters in March for approval. The final plan proposed included a $150,000 bond issue for a lake ferry.

The public weighed in, pro and con.  The Seattle Times and Seattle Star carried advertisements from the Bellevue Ferry Committee, a pro public ferry group formed to represent the interests of Eastside farmers, who wanted to transport their horse teams across the lake with their produce.  The Taxpayers’ Economy League and John Anderson were opposed.  Some accused supporters of being real estate speculators on the Eastside, just in it to benefit from increased land values.  A public ferry would inevitably be a “ruinous” financial proposition. The Ferry Committee countered that the private ferry business had a death grip on Eastside farmers. It appealed to Seattle Star readers, who it claimed subscribed to the paper because it had always stood for “reasonable public ownership as a relief from private monopoly.”

Proposition 6 passed easily on March 5, 1912.  The Port commissioners, who would run its new ferry system on the lake until 1919 alongside the county’s operation, commissioned a new double-ended vehicle ferry. The ‘Leschi’ was launched December 6, 1913 before a crowd of between 4,000 and 5,000 people. She could carry 2,500 passengers and 50 autos and teams. 

L75.0090 - The venerable ‘Leschi’ ferried vehicles and passengers between 1913 and 1950. She had a brief second act on the route between Seattle and Vashon Island and finally ended her days as a salmon cannery in Alaska

L75.0090 - The venerable ‘Leschi’ ferried vehicles and passengers between 1913 and 1950. She had a brief second act on the route between Seattle and Vashon Island and finally ended her days as a salmon cannery in Alaska

The Port began proceedings to condemn Anderson Steamboat Co.’s dock property at Leschi, for use of the ferry run to Bellevue and Medina.  The matter was finally settled in 1914 with the payment to Anderson of $20,000 for the facility.

Anderson built two ferries in 1914, the ‘Lincoln’ for the Port of Seattle’s Madison Park-Kirkland run and the smaller ‘Issaquah’ for his own route between Leschi and Newport, where cars connected to the Sunset Highway (today’s I-90) heading East.  The ‘Issaquah’ had a hardwood dance floor for the evening cruises she made on the lake after a day ferrying cars.  But Anderson was losing money on the ferry segment of his business.  In 1917 he withdrew his last boat, the ‘Issaquah’ from the lake and, with the opening of the Ballard locks, turned to building large ships in the Houghton shipyard for the looming world war. Eastside residents immediately complained about the loss of ferry service with Anderson’s withdrawal from the scene. The Port Commission contracted with him once again to run the ‘Issaquah’ until the end of the year. Anderson sold her to a Bay Area ferry concern the next year.

By 1918 the whole state of affairs was complicated, and hardly anyone was happy. The Port of Seattle was expanding vigorously and would have been profitable had not its ferry operations run large deficits. On Lake Washington the County and Port ran large vehicle ferries between Madison Park and Kirkland and Leschi and Bellevue/Medina respectively, on the rationale that these routes connected to important public highways and roads in the area. A newspaper article suggested that neither entity wanted to assume control of a consolidated system, even though that would be more efficient. Anderson’s ‘Issaquah’ was gone now. Private interests had to try to make profitable businesses serving the smaller docks on the lake, such as Mercer Island, Juanita, Beaux Arts, etc. The Port competed in these areas as well when it had the launches ‘Mercer’ and ‘Dr. Martin’ built and placed them on runs from Leschi  to Mercer Island and Yarrow Point respectively. It became virtually impossible for private interests to remain on the lake.  Public opinion was divided: Some felt public ferries should be limited to the routes to Kirkland, Medina and Bellevue.  Others believed the entire system ought to be in public hands, which the Seattle Daily Times pointed out would amount to a public Mosquito Fleet.

On August 15, 1918 the port and county commissioners reached an agreement whereby the Port of Seattle would transfer its two ferries and two launches to King County on January 1, 1919. The ferry ‘Robert Bridges’ ran on Puget Sound, the others on Lake Washington.   The position of Superintendent of Transportation was created.  When the man appointed to the post died unexpectedly within a week, the position was given to---John Anderson. Anderson named Harrie Tompkins, his long-time business associate, Assistant Superintendent.

Thus began a long period of intertwining public and private interests.  Anderson as a public official was now in the position of benefiting himself as a private businessman.  Initially the County leased all of his boats; in 1920 it bought them all, for $88,000. Subsequent investigations alleged that between 1919 and 1921 the County, under Anderson’s leadership, spent huge amounts on facilities and boats, repairing and repainting vessels (often in Anderson’s own Houghton shipyard). Repairs on the ‘Leschi’ alone totaled over $70,000.  There was apparently some unusual bookkeeping: costs of improvements such as docks were treated as operating expenses for the current year, rather than being spread out over their lifetimes.  The new waiting room constructed at a new, second Medina dock had a dance floor and was apparently used as a community center as well.   Anderson maintained an office in the Alaska Building rather than in the County’s workaday facility at the Leschi dock. At the same time the seven daily runs to Meydenbauer Bay in Bellevue were terminated; the boat now left just from Medina.  As the years’ operating deficiencies came to the taxpayers’ attention, some suspected that the commissioners might be deliberately creating a financial disaster in order to give them an incentive to offload the system.

1998.02.11 - King County Ferry System. “When Foggy Please Ring Gong.” Schedule lists times for both Seattle-Kirkland route and Seattle-Medina route.

1998.02.11 - King County Ferry System. “When Foggy Please Ring Gong.” Schedule lists times for both Seattle-Kirkland route and Seattle-Medina route.

And that is just what happened in December 1921.  The county commissioners leased its entire operation to John Anderson—apparently officially to a corporation called Lake Washington Ferries-- for a period of 10 years. No bids had been called for, and the whole matter was conducted almost surreptitiously. The agreement provided for no lease payments. In exchange for keeping all the system’s revenues, Anderson had to maintain routes and service and keep the boats in top condition at his own expense.  He could not raise fares. But he could return boats whenever he wished.   Finally, in lieu of a cash bonus for taking on the system, he was promised 20,000 barrels of oil, worth (according to some) $30,000.

The question that was in the air was,  How could Anderson make the ferry system profitable when under his watch it so clearly hadn’t been?  The public, particularly a Bellevue group led by Tom Daugherty, pressured the county until a grand jury was convened. Its report, after a nine-week investigation into the situation of the past several years, led to the county prosecutor’s  returning indictments in July 1922 against the three county commissioners, John Anderson, Harry Tompkins, and Johnson’s brother Adolf, for misuse of county funds for three specific vessel repairs and refurbishing and for misappropriating $700 in fuel oil.  Tompkins declared that the charges were “a bunch of bunk originating in Bellevue.” Defense attorney Fulton stated, “The indictments are the work of disgruntled people who have been unable to get personal favors from the commissioners.” A trial of the three commissioners was set for September in view of the November general election.  Tompkin’s and the Andersons’ trials would follow.

But the indictment imbroglio turned out to be something of a house of cards.  On the morning of the commissioners’ September trial, the prosecutor, in the presence of four of the grand jurors, interviewed his witnesses. (Bizarrely, one of the witnesses was John Anderson, who was to testify about the repair contracts’ terms.)  To his dismay, they all either couldn’t remember having given their testimony, couldn’t recall the facts charged, or claimed now that those facts could not possibly be true.  Faced with a total debacle, the prosecutor asked the judge to dismiss the three charges against the commissioners for lack of evidence.  He agreed.  The three still faced two indictments on repairs of the launch ‘Mercer’ and misuse of the fuel oil. 

L 80.028 - The ferry “Washington” of Kirkland on Lake Washington.

L 80.028 - The ferry “Washington” of Kirkland on Lake Washington.

While the remaining charges were still pending against all the defendants, the local media kept the affair in the public spotlight.  Beginning in January 1923 the Seattle Star published a series entitled “The Ferry Deal.”  It began with six brief pieces by W.E. Chambers, a former King County commissioner, who explained how the county had gotten into the ferry business and its entanglements with John Anderson.  In mid-March, “in line with [its] policy to publish both sides of any controversy,” the Star had Thomas Daugherty offer his own six-part interpretation of events.

 Two weeks before his own trial at the end of March 1923, John Anderson was called before the county commissioners to explain how in one year he was able to take the ferry system he had run as a county employee and, as the private lessee, turn 1921’s $234,000 deficit into 1922’s $40,000 profit and decrease disbursements by 200%.  He explained quite simply that he could run the system now as a business—cut salaries, employees, unfavorable routes-- free from the constraints he had had as a public official, when “politics interfered.” (Left unmentioned was the fact as Superintendent of Transportation he had front-loaded the huge expenditures for new facilities and refurbished vessels before the commissioners turned the system over to him.)

The rest of the story ended abruptly.  When the Anderson group went to trial at month’s end, the judge, after hearing all the county’s evidence and without waiting for the defense to present its case, issued a directed verdict in favor of the defendants and chided the prosecutor for having brought the indictments on the weak evidence he had.  That ended the matter for the commissioners as well.

The lake ferries were now all being operated privately, although the county owned the boats leased to Anderson. In 1924 Anderson’s Lake Washington Ferries advertised daily excursions on the county’s steamer ‘Atlanta’  between Lake Washington and the Seattle waterfront through the Ship Canal and locks.  Lake cruises and excursions were more lucrative than the ferry routes.  In 1925 Anderson announced that he would turn boats back on the following January 1 (which the lease allowed him to do) unless the county would pay $70,000 to buy and install a new engine on the ‘Lincoln.  ’ Or the county could just give him the boat and he would pay for the engine. As one wag suggested in the newspaper, maybe Anderson could compromise with an Evinrude outboard.

Anderson persevered; in 1927 his lease was extended without fanfare until 1951. But it was becoming clear that the real culprit in the “unprofitability” of ferry service was the automobile.  Paving of the highway encircling the lake was completed in 1923, and the East Channel bridge to Mercer Island’s east shore opened in that year.  A floating bridge between the island and Seattle had been proposed in 1921, but it wasn’t seriously considered until 1930.  After funds became available through the Public Works Administration and serious planning began, one final major showdown over the ferry lease developed.

The Washington Toll Bridge Authority feared  it would be difficult to pay off the bonds, which had financed the bridge,  with bridge tolls  so long as competition in the form of lake ferries continued.  Under this pressure, in December 1938 the county commissioners cancelled Anderson’s lease.  He fought back by filing a claim for anticipated damages.  Negotiations among the three parties finally led to a settlement.  The county would not cancel the lease, and the Toll Authority would pay Anderson $35,000. In exchange, he would terminate the Leschi-Medina route and the runs to Mercer Island once the bridge opened. The run between Madison Park and Kirkland would continue to operate.

There was one final unpleasant chapter to play out.  The floating bridge opened on July 2, 1940 and that month Anderson announced that he was returning the ferry ‘Washington’ and the docks at Medina and Roanoke to the county and planned to return the launch ‘Mercer’ the following month.  When the boats were returned they were found to be in very poor condition. One had had its federal license cancelled because of unseaworthiness. The commissioners ruled that Anderson would have to pay a sum, as yet undetermined, in lieu of repairing the vessels.  Anderson countered that the boats were “just wore out” and that if they had been owned by a private business, they would have been “depreciated off the books long ago.”  The lease, however, provided that he was to return all boats leased in good condition.  Appraisers from each side were unable to agree on the present value of the boats; the county’s property agent was left to salvage what he could from the two boats.

John Anderson died of a heart attack on May 18, 1941.  His widow, Emilie, and his longtime right-hand man, Harrie Tompkins, continued to operate the Kirkland ferry under the lease with the county.  During World War II the ferry ‘Lincoln’ ferried shipyard workers between Madison Park and the  Lake Washington Shipyard at Houghton.  The ‘Leschi’ continued to make the Kirkland-Madison Park run.

In July 1947 Emilie Anderson wrote the county commissioners announcing that Lake Washington Ferries would not continue its lease beyond the end of the year and might suspend ferry service before then. But the enterprise just kept staying afloat.  On January 30, 1950, however, the Seattle Times ran three photos of teary longtime passengers and onlookers—including faithful Harrie Tompkins--saying goodbye to the ‘Leschi’ on what was expected to be its final run.  But no, there was still more.  Members of the union operating the boat attempted to continue to operate it so long as revenues could meet wages.  Their effort could not be sustained, however.  On August 31, 1950 the Leschi made its truly final run on the lake, and vehicle ferry service between the Eastside and Seattle ended.  In November the county commissioners voted to offer to the cities of Kirkland and Seattle the piers and land adjacent to them at their old ferry landings, for use as public parks. And so this colorful and complicated piece of local history finally came to an end. 

1998BHS.027.027 - Leschi’s last trip, leaving Medina

1998BHS.027.027 - Leschi’s last trip, leaving Medina

References

Books

The H.W. McCurdy Marine History of the Pacific Northwest, Gordon Newell, ed., Seattle: Superior Publishing Co. 1966

Ely, Arline, Our Foundering Fathers: The Story of Kirkland, Kirkland Public Library, 1975

Faber, Jim, Steamer’s Wake, Seattle: Enetai Press, 1985

McDonald, Lucile, The Lake Washington Story, Seattle: the Superior Publishing Co., 1979

Oldham, et. Al, Rising Tides and Tailwinds: The Story of the Port of Seattle, Seattle: Port of Seattle, 2011

Articles

McCauley, Mattthew, The Era of the Double-ended Ferry on Lake Washington,” Kirkland Reporter, Aug. 31, 2001

HistoryLink Essays #9726 (Port of Seattle Commissioners Meet), #2638 (ferry ‘Leschi’ last run), #2040 (‘Leschi’ launch)

John Anderson, Shipbuilder, en. Wikipedia.org/wiki/John_L._Anderson_(shipbuilder)

Newspaper articles

Seattle Daily Times

Seattle Post-Intelligencer

Seattle Star

Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside Part 3

Stories and Art Works

BY Barb williams, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Beaver Lake Park house post

Beaver Lake Park house post

The Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside have enriched this region and the world with the many gifts of their culture. Some of these include:  Art, Dance, Theatre, Science, Philosophy, Life Skills, Technology, Psychology, Education, History, Genealogy, Nomenclature, and Stories. Written, oral and tangible elements remind us of the presence of these people as we explore their heritage and learn from them.

Rivers, mountains, sloughs, lakes, cities, towns and marine vessels with Indian names  are constant reminders of the impact these people have had, and still have, on this region. The Duwamish and The Snoqualmie are two Seattle fireboats that have Indian names.  The former was built in 1890. Together they fought the Grand Trunk Dock fire that erupted in Seattle on July 30,1914.  Snoqualmie Pass carries the name of the  Snoqualmie people living in that area. Places such as Issaquah, Sammamish, Leschi,  Nisqually, Snohomish, Tahoma, Stillaquamish, Seattle (Sealth), Skagit are all Native American names used today. These names are woven into the tangible and geographic fabric of the Lake Washington and Puget Sound regions.

Names, stories and artworks are gifts that spring from the beliefs, creativity and richness of local Native American culture. Women basket makers were respected for their skill and artistry in creating utilitarian and beautiful baskets usually woven from plant materials. Some baskets were so tightly woven they could hold liquids. Others were made with twigs spaced apart. These clam baskets allowed the water, sand and mud to drain out. Loops along the upper rim held ferns in place to cover food items in the basket. Harvesting, preparing and working with the plant materials is a skill in itself. Creating the basket and its design is another skill. It takes many years before a basket maker becomes an accomplished artisan. Some women became weavers making traditional Salish ceremonial blankets with white background and occasional dark lines. The blankets were usually made from mountain goat hair and that of a small dog. The breed of the dog is yet to be determined, but it is thought to have resembled a small white poodle or pomeranian whose hair could be sheared. These women held a respected position in the villages. 

2004.013.004 - Naming Blanket, made by Fran and Bill James.

2004.013.004 - Naming Blanket, made by Fran and Bill James.

2004.013.005 - Cedar bark woven with bear grass, made by Yvonne Peterson.

2004.013.005 - Cedar bark woven with bear grass, made by Yvonne Peterson.

Dudley Carter's carving at Marymoor

Dudley Carter's carving at Marymoor

Much of the fiber artwork such as baskets and weaving took place in the longhouses, as did the story telling. Local Indians lived in houses made from split cedar wood planks. The roofs were slanted from front to back in order to shed the rain. Large roof beams held up by decorated house posts were carved by skilled craftsmen. These posts, like the ones presently found at Beaver Lake Park in Sammamish, often depict stories, characters and songs. Song Dots on the posts represent songs while the figures represent stories. Stories are teachings that tell about the origin of things in the world, human characteristics and natural features. A Snoqualmie story titled, “Snoqualm, Moon The Transformer”, tells about the origins of the area between North Bend and Snoqualmie. Snoqualmie (English spelling) means “The Transformer’s People”.  A decorative pole depicting the story was carved by non-Native American Dudley Carter. The artwork can be found at Marymoor Park in Redmond. The story tells about how two Indian sisters fell asleep in the Snoqualmie prairie after digging fern roots. During the night the younger sister looked up at the stars above and wished that she could marry the white star and her sister marry the red star. Her wish came true when the star men picked up the girls and took them to the sky world. The elder sister became pregnant and delivered a baby boy who later was named, Moon the Transformer. By this naming time he had become an adult and the sisters had returned to their home by making a rope and sliding down it. Rat later chewed on the rope which fell to Earth from the sky world. The rope turned into a rock presently known as, Quarry Rock. As an adult, Moon transforms the Snoqualmie area by creating the natural features and peoples. He then goes into the sky to shed light by night while his younger brother, Sun, sheds light by day. The original version of the story is long, rich in detail and can be found at the University of Washington libraries.

Salmon Woman sculpture located at Highland Community Center, Bellevue

Salmon Woman sculpture located at Highland Community Center, Bellevue

Native American art works are located in a myriad of places throughout the Eastside and Washington State. One Eastside location is at the front of the Highland Community Center on Bel-Red Road, Bellevue. The sculpture, created by Tom Jay and installed in 1991, is titled “Salmon Woman”. Some art works are local while others travel farther afield. A statue of Nisqually tribal leader and treaty rights activist, Billy Frank Jr. who died in 2014 at the age of 83, is being installed in Statuary Hall in the United States Capitol. A totem pole created by Lummi carvers is being taken to President Biden. It began its cross-country journey from Washington State on May 25, 2021 with an expected return date of June 14, 2021. The sacred journey with many stops along the route is a way of calling attention to the protection of Indigenous sacred places. The pole will be featured in the fall of 2021 at the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian --- a fine tribute to the original peoples of this land through the power of their art, stories and culture.


Resources

Books:

Puget Sound Maritime Historical Society, Images of America: Maritime Seattle, 2002.

Bohan, Heidi, The People of Cascadia: Pacific Northwest Native American History, 2009.

Pamphlet:

Beaver Lake Park: Totem Pole and House Post Dedication, 12/5/1992.

Newspaper Articles:

Snoqualmie Valley Reporter, “Moon The Transformer” by Kenneth G. “Greg” Watson.

The Seattle Times, “A Sacred Journey” by Linda V. Mapes 4/12/2021.

The Seattle Times, “His voice will speak”: Billy Frank Jr. statue to represent state at U.S. Capitol    4/15/2021.

2021 AKCHO Technology Award

Eastside Heritage Center has been awarded the 2021 AKCHO Technology Award for our Eastside Stories publications. We’re honored to be recognized in this way and want to thank everyone who has read one of our stories or watched one of our videos.

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We’d also like to thank our staff and volunteers for their hard work researching, writing, and editing these articles and videos. We look forward to continuing this series and sharing more of these stories with you.

Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside Part 2

European Contact: White Settlers

BY Barb williams, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Map, Tribal Ceded Areas in Washington State, Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Map, Tribal Ceded Areas in Washington State, Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.

In the early days, 6,000 or more years before White settlers came to Puget Sound and the Eastside, the Duwamish and Snoqualmie peoples were the dominant indigenous groups in the area. Despite intermittent raids and skirmishes between groups, the people were primarily peaceful. Their lives were supported by the bounty of the natural resources in the area, both plant and animal. The salmon returned each year to the creeks, rivers, lakes and saltwater bays. The villages were located close to these waterways which enabled easy transportation and acquisition of food. Duwamish longhouses were mostly located at the only waterway outlet from Lake Washington (originally known as Duwamish Lake) to Puget Sound. In 1849, Isaac Ebey came to the lake. He called it Lake Geneva. Several years later patriotic United States settlers moved into the area and changed the name to Lake Washington. Thus began White settlement that brought permanent changes to the region and to the lives of the indigenous peoples. White/Indian relationships were basically friendly prior to the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty in 1855.  However, following the signing, some Indian peoples became hostile once they realized their lands and traditional harvesting rights were being impacted by the White settlers. The Hudson’s Bay Company had come to trade with the Indians, but the United States had come to settle and take over their lands. 

Many indigenous groups spoke their own language, but all in this area belonged to the Salishan family whose parent language was known as, Chinook.  A new language was developed after 1792 when Captain Vancouver visited the Puget Sound area and the Hudson’s Bay Company began trading goods with the Indian people. The new language called Chinook jargon was created to facilitate communication between Indian peoples, fur traders, explorers and early settlers. Washington was the center of Chinook jargon that dated from about 1810. It consisted of an estimated 200 words of Chinook Indian language, mixed with Nootka, English, French and other languages. Some Native Americans used the new language and learned English, but others did not.

One of those who did not was Chief Sealth who had become the primary chief of the Puget Sound region. He never learned English or Chinook jargon because he felt it was beneath the dignity of the chief (himself) of his people. But he was always a friend of the White people. He wore a Hudson’s Bay blanket and was the first signer of the Point Elliott Treaty. He became a Catholic and held daily prayer meetings for his people. He was born in 1790 on Blake Island, a tribal camping ground, and passed away June 7, 1866. His daughter, Kakisimia, known as Princess Angeline, learned to speak English. It is said that she paddled her canoe through a blinding snowstorm to warn the garrison at Seattle of the impending Indian attack during the Battle of Seattle on January 6, 1856.

Unfulfilled Treaty promises granted to the Indian people in exchange for their lands stirred their discontent which resulted in the attack on Seattle. Hundreds of Indian warriors came to fight for their rights. However, after a day of fighting in which the U.S. Navy warship, the Decatur, fired its cannons killing many warriors, they retreated to the Eastside and over the Cascade Mountains from whence they had come. Leschi, the war-chief of the Nisquallies rallied his warriors for the attack on Seattle at a site on the western shores of Lake Washington. The site remained an Indian village called Fleaburg that was inhabited until the 1880s. Presently a Seattle suburb and a park called Leschi are located at the site. Other Indian warriors had gathered for the attack on Seattle at a large village site located on the eastern shores of Lake Washington near present-day Factoria.

OR/L 79.79.469 - Marie Louie or her sister Julia, Taken on the Lake Sammamish Road near Inglewood in 1914.

OR/L 79.79.469 - Marie Louie or her sister Julia, Taken on the Lake Sammamish Road near Inglewood in 1914.

As mentioned earlier, the battle was the result of discontent as the Indian people began to experience the true meaning of their leaders signing the Point Elliott Treaty at Mukilteo on January 22, 1855. The Treaty document, hastily presented to many Native American groups by Governor Isaac Stevens, was presented in a language that many Indian leaders, as signers, did not necessarily understand. It gave Indian lands to the United States in return for compensation and rights. However, it was not ratified for four years and the promises had not been fulfilled. Tensions began to build during the summer of 1855. This resulted in the Treaty Wars of 1855-1856. By then the population of lake people Indians had been reduced by 80%, a result of the small pox epidemic in the 1830s. Many of the people had been moved to reservations. Those who remained in their homes, discovered that they were not allowed to hunt and fish at their traditional grounds --- a “right” they thought had been promised to them in exchange for their lands. Some of those who stayed in place were Snoqualmie people. 

Marie Louie, a Snoqualmie Indian princess whose Indian name was Gotshoblo, was one who stayed. She was born at Tolt (Carnation) in 1798 and died in 1917. She was a friend of the White settlers and often helped deliver their babies, such as the Pickerings baby. Bessie Wilson Crane’s birth was facilitated by Marie Louie.  Her family lived in Issaquah. Bessie’s daughter’s birth was assisted by Marie Louie.  Bessie remembered how much “Aunt Louie” loved children and would often sing to them. As a medicinal herbalist for her people, she enjoyed teaching pioneer children about the ways of the woods and streams. She was a well-known figure as she paddled her big canoe from Issaquah on Lake Sammamish, through the Sammamish Slough, south on Lake Washington to the Black River that connected to the Duwamish River, and into Elliott Bay to Seattle. There she sold the rag rugs she made from settlers’ worn out clothing. Her round trip took her almost a month to complete. She was approaching Seattle on June 7, 1889 when 32 blocks of Seattle’s business and commercial district burned. Her friend, Arthur Denny, warned her about the fire and saved her from coming ashore. Always helpful to White settlers, she walked several times in her bare feet to Yakima and back bringing with her new hops plants for the hops farmers on the Eastside.  

Following the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty, many Indian people needed a way to make a living. Some worked in laundry and lumber while providing a valuable workforce that contributed mightily to the successful growth of Seattle. Some came from miles away to work as paid help for the hops farmers in Issaquah, Fall City, and Auburn. These were good jobs for the men, women, and children. Others helped White settlers transport their provisions in their big canoes. It is said that the canoes could carry as much as two tons of goods. Indian guides showed White settlers water and land passageways and how to survive in the new land. In his journal, Reverend R. W. Summers writes that on July 17, 1871 Indian guides took him by canoe to their sacred place, Snoqualmie Falls. The Perrigo family set up a trading post in Redmond. They traded with members of four different Indian tribes and used Indian ponies to expand their business to farms between Redmond, Tolt and Novelty Hill.

L 88.029.003.7 - Snoqualmie Valley Native American hop farmers and workers, 1890.

L 88.029.003.7 - Snoqualmie Valley Native American hop farmers and workers, 1890.

Some Indians were both hostile and friendly to White people. Chief Patkanim of the Snoqualmie people was one of them. In 1849 he and his warriors attacked the settlers at Fort Nisqually, but during the Indian Wars of 1855-1856, he gathered eighty warriors of his tribe to help the White people. However, the Castro family of Issaquah was not so fortunate when they were murdered by Indian people as revenge for Indians that had been killed by White people. The years following the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty in 1855 resulted in a mixed relationship for both the Indian people and White settlers living in the Puget Sound and Eastside regions.

As more and more White settlers came to the region bringing with them their values and need for wood, coal, farming and industry, the area was greatly changed. In 1916 the Government Locks were built to connect the northern end of Lake Washington to Puget Sound. Because Lake Washington is higher in elevation than Puget Sound, the water levels throughout the Eastside dropped  9 to 12 feet. This greatly impacted the Indian peoples. The Wapato plant they depended on for food disappeared and the Black River all but dried up causing the large village on its banks to be abandoned and the southern water link to Elliott Bay to be blocked. Instead, the Cedar River began to flow into Lake Washington and the lake drained north past the University of Washington through the locks to Puget Sound. By this time many Native Americans were living on reservation lands. Some groups had been recognized by the United States government which entitled them to government programs and aid. Others had set up their own businesses, graduated from schools and universities and had become part of the new way of life.

However, there is one group, the Duwamish, that is still awaiting United States Government Recognition. At present there is a movement towards gaining Recognition and a petition (#StandWithTheDuwamish) circulating asking for support towards that end. The Duwamish people have built a beautiful community center near the mouth of the Duwamish River on the western side. They offer public programs, artworks and a wonderful place in which to connect with their culture.

Let us remember the Indian peoples who first inhabited these lands. They deserve our respect and gratitude for the gifts they have given to this region we all call “home”.  


For more information about the Indigenous communities of Washington state, please visit the American Library Association at the link below.


Resources

Books:

Fish, Edwards R. Past at Present at Issaquah Washington, copyright 1967.

Craine, Bessie Wilson Squak Valley, 1983.

McConaghy, Lorraine New Land, North of the Columbia, copyright 2011.

Thrush, Coll Native Seattle, University of Washington Press, 2007.

A Publication of the Seattle Times A Hidden Past articles 12/1997 to 1/2000.

Annotated bibliography of the following books: 

Dupar, Robert W. Meydenbauer History, 1989.

Karolevitz, Robert F. Kemper Freeman, Sr. and the Bellevue Story, 1984.

Eastside Heritage Center collections:

C.T. Conover, three articles that begin with the title, Just Cogitating: Puget Sound Indian Customs, Notes About Puget Sound Indians, Chief Seattle Had Dignified Appearance, Puget Sound Indian Tribes.

David Buerge article, Indian Lake Washington, The Weekly, 8/1 - 8/7 1984.

Frank Lynch article, Seattle is Named after a Slaveholder, Seattle Scene.

Pat Sandbo Salish Traditional Life Skills, based on a presentation by Steve & Dorothy Phillip.

Paul Shukovsky article, Duwamish Tribe Fights for Recognition, Seattle P-I 9/5/2008.

Nancy Way article, Perrigos start first inn and trading post near Redmond, Redmond Sammamish Valley News, August 16, 1995.

Charles W. Smith book chapter, “An Old Quaker Magazine”.

Photograph of Marie Louie inscription

Newspaper articles:

The Seattle Times June 7, 2021, Opinion, Give Duwamish Tribe Overdue Recognition

The Seattle Times June 13, 2021, Paid Advertising, Who Are the Duwamish?

Website:

Treaty history and interpretation. Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife. (n.d.). https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/management/tribal/history.

Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside Part One

Early Years: Pre-European Contact

BY Barb williams, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Native American stories often begin with the words “In the Early Days Long Ago when the world was very young-----”. This story about the indigenous peoples that inhabited the shores of Lake Washington and the Eastside begins thousands of years ago before white settlers came to the region. The story is grounded in years of research and oral histories.

The area was beautiful with an abundance of natural resources. Freshwater flowed into Lake Washington from the many creeks along its shores. Water was plentiful as was the flora and fauna found along its banks and hills. The Black River at the south end of the lake was the only outlet to the saltwater. It connected to the Duwamish River that emptied into Elliott Bay. These rivers provided the passageway along which the adult salmon returned annually to the lake to spawn and for the young salmon to begin their journey downstream to the saltwater. This critical feature provided the people with a food source upon which they depended. For this reason, they often built their villages at the mouths of creeks where the salmon spawned. The landlocked Kokanee salmon that inhabited the lake were prized by other groups who travelled from the north to fish and return home with the tender meat. Arthur Ballard, a resident of Auburn, Washington, called these indigenous people, The Lake People or hah-chu-AHBSH. HAH -chu means “lake” and ahbsh means “people of”. Most of these people belonged to the Duwamish or Snoqualmie; sub groups of the Coast Salish. They spoke Chinook jargon, but also their own local dialect. Many of the place-names in use today originated with the names of these peoples.

Lake Washington before water was lowered, 1915. (L96.025.020)

Lake Washington before water was lowered, 1915. (L96.025.020)

Archaeological sites on the Eastside have revealed much about these early Native Americans. One of the oldest sites is at Tokul Creek flats which is at the confluence of Tokul Creek and the Snoqualmie River, below the falls. According to archaeologist, Astrid Blukis Onat, who studied the site in 1967, the area was used for over 2,500 years. Another important site is the one at Marymoor Park situated along the Sammamish Slough in Redmond. More than a thousand artifacts were found revealing a hunting civilization: arrowheads, blades, and awls used to punch holes in hides were among the items discovered there. Along the Black River two villages were found. The first was inhabited from about 1790 to 1825 and the second between 1850 to 1856. There have been eighteen sites studied around the shores of Lake Washington. Each village site revealed dwelling(s), artifacts and had its own burial ground. The tu-oh-beh-BAHBSH site near Thorton Creek revealed one house and access to the large cranberry bog where Northgate is presently located. The TAHB-tah-byook site is located at the mouth of Juanita Creek with possibly seven houses. They enjoyed feasting on what was considered some of the best Wapato in the Puget Sound area. The Wapato, often referred to as the Indian Potato, was a staple food plant for the native Americans. The root was roasted like a potato and was a source of starch. The SAH-tsa-kah-LUBSH (head of the slough people) had three houses on the Mercer Slough and close to present-day Factoria. It was an important site being the terminus at the lake for the trail that lead to Lake Sammamish, onward to Snoqualmie prairies where trading took place, and to areas east of the Cascade Mountains. It was along this trail that one hundred Yakima and Wenatchee Indian warriors came in 1855 to fight the Battle of Seattle. The village site and its headman, Che-shi-ahud (Lake John), sheltered the warriors. To the northwest at Meydenbauer Bay, the villagers caught peamouth fish in Meydenbauer Creek. The long marsh that stretched south of the village for three miles was a productive natural resource. Women dug cattail roots for food and used the leaves to make mats often used for house construction when the people left the winter houses for their summer harvesting grounds. The marsh grasses along with twigs and bark provided materials for baskets woven by the women. Some were so tightly woven, they could hold water and were used for cooking. Volcanic rocks were heated in the fire and then placed in the water at intervals to keep the water hot. In this way the food was cooked or boiled. Some foods such as salmon were dried. This was the case at the village site called, shu-bahl-tu-AHBSH (drying house people) located at May Creek where the salmon runs were plentiful. The fish were dried on racks or cured in the smoke houses. 

A popular deer hunting area was a field on Mercer Island where the deer were driven across the water to a location near Beaux Arts. Here they came ashore exhausted from their swim and were killed. The Native Americans hunted on Mercer Island, but never stayed overnight due to a belief that a monster lived at the top of the island and the island sank into the lake at night. This idea may have originated with the changing water levels due to seasonal flooding, landslides and other natural causes. Presently, there are two known upright, underwater forests that slid into the lake: one at the north end of the island and the other at the south end.  

A large western red cedar bark berry-picking basket. (C2-64)

A large western red cedar bark berry-picking basket. (C2-64)

There was much trading among local and outside groups. Trade pathways from Elliott Bay to east of the Cascade mountains developed. Northern peoples came to trade, visit and raid the villages for slaves and goods. Marriages were common between villages and peoples of different groups. During the summer months, there was much celebrating and villagers could be found at their summer harvest sites. When the salmon runs came in the fall, everybody worked. During the winter months, the people returned to their winter homes, processed the summer’s harvest, made items for use and danced and sang in celebration of the ancestors and spirits.

The Lake People, like many indigenous peoples, developed a clever technology to support their daily needs. From basketry, tools, clothing, canoes, house construction, hunting tools and so much more, they relied on the natural resources in their environment. A specialized duck harpoon was created that had two prongs that caught in the feathers of the ducks. When the migrating flocks of waterbirds came to the lake and marsh, the men set fires on clay hearths in their canoes. The flickering of those fires could be seen at night along the shorelines. The fires drew the birds out of the marshes whereupon they were ensnared in large nets made from the twine of stinging nettle plants, or caught with the duck harpoon. 

Much of the local Native American Pre-European Contact history is observed or spoken. Thanks to researchers and contributors, it is being discovered and valued for the wonderful lessons the Lake People of Lake Washington and Puget Sound have to teach us. Over all, life seemed good for the people and resources plentiful during this historic time.  


Resources

Bohan, Heidi. “The People of Cascadia: Pacific Northwest American History” c. 2009

Buerge, David. “Indian Lake Washington”, article in The Weekly, August 1 - August 7, 1984.

Margeson, Doug. “History underfoot: Eastside abounds in ancient Native American camps and villages”, article in Living, Wednesday, September 22, 1993.

Williams, Jacqueline and Goldie Silverman. “Beyond Smoked Salmon”, article.


Part of our Award Winning Eastside Stories Series

A History of Snoqualmie Pass: Tourists, Recreationists, and Environmentalists

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and famil…

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and family.

By Angeline Nesbit

The creation of the highway through Snoqualmie Pass has a history of over 6,000 years starting with the first indigenous peoples who traveled it on foot. That history continues to be made as we expand and change the highway to be more efficient, stable, and safe for travelers. Conquering the geographic elements which once were considered too formidable a barrier for people to cross regularly, people now engage in many recreational activities in the surrounding area of the pass.

Opening this space for hikers, hunters, and tourists also has its own history. Preserving the forests and history around the pass is an environmental concern which has attracted several projects and land purchases. Converting spaces that were apart of historical industries and routes through the mountains into places for recreation is the next step in human interest in the Snoqualmie Pass area.

An early project embarked on by the Boy Scouts of America and the Forest Service before the 1980s was to hack away the brush and open part to the wagon road built in 1868. They preserved what was left of some of the early trail for hikers to enjoy. This 1-mile stretch was the original foot and horse trail of Native Americans which was widened to a wagon road. This trail can be accessed near Denny Creek Campground.

Encouraging more hikers, in September 1994 the Snoqualmie tunnel built by Milwaukee Road railways 80 years before, opened to hikers and mountain bikers. The Milwaukee Road railways were some of the first electrified trains which traveled westward through their own protected tunnels. The tunnel was built with the help of 2,500 men whose labor, along with blasting materials, broke through 12,000 feet of solid rock. Two teams met in the middle to complete the large project. Massive wooden doors protect the entrance to the tunnel which railroad employees stood by to open for approaching trains. This kept icicles from forming in the very cold and damp tunnel. A cold wind emits from the tunnel strong enough to rustle clothing. The Snoqualmie Tunnel is the longest hiking tunnel in the US at 2.3 miles long. It runs over the county line between King and Kittitas counties, creating a link in the Iron Horse Trail to the west and Hyak trail to the east.

A few years later, in a huge land deal the company known as Weyerhaeuser sold over 100,000 acres of forested land they used as a tree farm to a trust which guaranteed it’ preservation permanently. This was a $185 million-dollar deal with the Evergreen Forest Trust, who has long been attempting the protection of the land. “Evergreen Forest” at Snoqualmie was acquired in 2002. At the time it was already being used by recreationalists with a fee to the Weyerhaeuser company. This site is home to old growth trees and rich wildlife making it an ideal recreation area.

Surrounded by national parks, including Mount Baker National Forest, Mount Rainier National Park, and Okanagan-Wenatchee National Forest the land around Snoqualmie Pass is beautifully preserved. Despite the many people who speed through each year the Cascades remain a haven of natural beauty which inspires people to slow down and enjoy the view. Next time you travel the pass leave time to stop and enjoy the natural world which surrounds this human made structure.

Photo (above): On a motor trip to Snoqualmie Summit this photograph shows group of people standing in front of cars, in front of long buildings.

Photo (above): On a motor trip to Snoqualmie Summit this photograph shows group of people standing in front of cars, in front of long buildings.


Resources

Eastside Heritage Center Archives

“Snoqualmie Pass: From Indian Trail to Interstate” by Yvonne Prater

A History of Snoqualmie: Transportation Across the Cascades

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and famil…

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and family.

By Angeline Nesbit

The Snoqualmie Pass road project was first conceptualized in the 1840s, but construction of the road stopped and started with the political and economic concerns of the region and country. The road didn’t reach a point where it resembled a real highway until about 1895. Constructed with Cedar planks to help keep the road even and drivable, cars began to travel the route although often having to adapt to weather changes quickly.

Automobiles are just the most recent form of travel through the Cascades though. Native Americans walked across the mountains for thousands of years before a large road was cut out. Using a slightly different route than Snoqualmie Pass follows today, indigenous peoples were able to maintain trade routes between east and west. With the introduction of the horse these routes were even more readily traveled. Today one mile of the original route, which also laid groundwork for European colonizer’s eventual road, is preserved near Denny’s creek.

Early European and American settlers came in wagons and on horseback as well across the route, but they remained partial to travel by water until the road began to be more established in the late 1800s. Still freight wagons bringing goods out west used the road readily. In 1909 the Alaska-Yukon Exposition created a reason to improve the road as people flocked to attend the event.

Photo (above): Men with car on Snoqualmie Pass highway, probably near North Bend, taken in 1916.

Photo (above): Men with car on Snoqualmie Pass highway, probably near North Bend, taken in 1916.

This along with automobiles and tourists are sometimes credited with the final push to create a truly viable pass at Snoqualmie. US route 10, Sunset highway opened in 1915, a greatly improved road to allow easy travel for motorists. Still, the road was often perilous, and motorists were sometimes inclined to park their cars on railway flatbeds and take the train through the pass in inclement weather.

The Milwaukee Road was one of these railways. Building railroads and tunnels through the pass they transported goods, people, and other items. Milwaukee Road used some of the first electrified trains which traveled westward through their own protected tunnels to speed travel. Their train, The Olympian, was the first passenger train to go through the Snoqualmie tunnel in January 1915.

Dramatic changes in transportation are a part of what has shaped the Eastside. Without roads like the Snoqualmie Pass highway (known as I-90) our region of eastern King County would find travel to the east extremely difficult. Developing the road to allow for the safe travel of cars and trucks made the large community we live in today possible.

Resources

Eastside Heritage Center Archives

Anna Clise and the Seattle Children's Hospital

L 88.40.01 - James and Anna Clise, with dog Toby, at Willowmoor.

L 88.40.01 - James and Anna Clise, with dog Toby, at Willowmoor.

Anna and James Clise had lost their son, Willis, to juvenile arthritis in 1898. At that time, there were no hospitals in the Seattle area to treat children. In her grief, Anna sought a way to ease the suffering of other mothers and children. After visiting Dr. John Musser at Philadelphia Orthopedic in 1906, Anna was moved to action. In 1907, she organized a group of 23 other wealthy Seattle women to establish a hospital of their own.

Anna was elected the first President of the Board of Trustees of Children’s Orthopedic Hospital Association. They started with a seven bed ward in Seattle General Hospital and had an all-female board. In their first year, the Association was approached by the Dorcas Society about a 14-year-old black girl with tuberculosis of the knee. When asked if they would help her, the Association pledged to accept any child, regardless of race, religion, or the parents’ ability to pay. That year the doctors of the ward treated 13 children and performed 7 operations.

The Clise’s owned the property that is today known as Marymoor Park, in Redmond. There they hosted many lavish parties to help fund this new hospital. Guests were met at the ferry dock with a four-horse tallyho and transported to the 350 acre estate. Anna’s daughter Ruth recalled, “Gaily colored Japanese lanterns holding lighted candles were strung between the trees in the garden and down to the river, where their reflections created a romantic setting. The large rooms of the house and the spacious verandas provided ample room for dancing, the music drifting out over the garden.”

As word spread about the work they were doing, the Association quickly outgrew the ward at Seattle General. In 1908, they opened the “Fresh Air Cottage” on Queen Anne Hill with 12 beds. In 1911, they built an even larger 50-bed hospital next door. The hospital remained there until 1953, when it moved to its current location in the Laurelhurst neighborhood.

By 1917, Anna had lost her eyesight to glaucoma and the couple decided to retire to their property in California. She maintained an interest in the Children’s hospital throughout her remaining years and her daughter and granddaughter served as trustees. Anna died of cancer in 1936.

 

Anna Clise was included in the Washington State Centennial Hall of Honor in 1989.


To learn more about the Clise family and their Willowmoor estate, visit our latest online exhibit: Willowmoor.


Resources

"The Washington State Centennial Hall of Honor." Columbia Magazine. 3.2 (Summer 1989): 36­39. http://columbia.washingtonhistory.org/magazine/articles/1989/0289/0289­‐a2.aspx.

Woman's Place: a Guide to Seattle and King County History, by Mildred Tanner Andrews, Gemil Press, 1994, pp. 154–155.

Johnston, Helen, and Richard Johnston. Willowmoor: the Story of Marymoor Park. King County Historical Association, 1976.

500 Hundred Black Workers Brought to Work at Franklin Mine

In April of 1891 the white workers at Newcastle Mine were on strike. This protest of a recent contract with the mine’s owners was called by the union that most of the workers there belonged to, the Knights of Labor. About 25 miles southeast, in Franklin, the owners of the Newcastle Mine, the Oregon Improvement Company (OIC), had been preparing to keep production going in spite of union attempts to preserve their wages and the eight-hour day by reopening the Franklin Mine. Upon hearing news of the strike the month before the OIC sent Theron B. Corey, new superintendent of the Franklin Mine, to the Midwest to recruit as many Black workers as he could. Washington State chapters of the Knights of Labor’s previous discrimination against Chinese railway workers gave the OIC reason to believe that the Knights of Labor would not accept Black workers into their ranks although the national union had several all Black chapters throughout the country.

Corey was able to recruit 500 Black miners and laborers to come and work in the previously shut down Franklin Mine and they departed the Midwest on a train out of St. Paul, Minnesota. The train arrived in Palmer, and to avoid being spotted by the Knights of Labor, workers marched to Franklin under cover of darkness arriving on May 17, 1891. What they arrived to were new homes the OIC had promised, protected by barbed wire and armed guards. Their arrival did not go unnoticed though. The new Black miners were reported in that morning newspaper in Seattle where they were referred to as “invaders” by the press.

Many of the new hires were unaware they were being used to undermine the union. Although not technically scabs, since Franklin Mine was shut down before the strike, the OIC knew that the Knights of Labor would see it that way. Enough workers to operate the mine already existed in the area but, they were mainly union members and sympathizers. Moving Black miners into Franklin was a part of a larger plan by the company to rid all their mines of union workers.

On the morning of June 28, the OIC ordered that sixty Black miners travel from Franklin to Newcastle to cross union lines and work in the Newcastle Mine. While still on the platform in Franklin waiting for the morning train they were shot at by armed miners from Newcastle. Although none on the platform were injured, a man who met the shooters elsewhere, Ben Gaston was shot and fell downhill 30 feet. His attackers stole the gun he carried and fled. He was taken to the hospital and survived. This attack outraged the Black community of Franklin but intervention by private company guards and the county sheriff kept them from retaliating.

The violence did not end there. Around 7:30 PM that night the hired guards noticed two armed men hiding near Franklin station and made them leave. Two shots rang out as the train arrived and a guard on board returned fire. As he did so, everyone on board who was armed began to shoot in every direction. At the sound of the shots the Black community nearby also took up arms.

One group from Franklin believed the attackers to be hiding in the “flats” by the Green River and they headed there, taking a position facing the white miner’s homes. They opened fire on the houses and residents fled, hiding in the surrounding terrain. Several were injured but again, there were no reported deaths. Elsewhere, OIC manager Park Robinson though, shot two striking miners dead, claiming they had run towards him during the conflict.

The fighting was stopped when the National Guard arrived. The governor ordered that King County mines be disarmed and that the hired guards employed by the OIC be removed. Although the Knights of Labor denied involvement in the hostilities they would be largely blamed for this incident and violence around unions would soon lead to the end of the organization.

Black workers remained in the area after these incidents and continued to work in the coal mines. Forming their own social club which offered comradery and some protection by still sometimes hostile white workers.

The Eastside Heritage Center is working to bring more of the stories of this community to you. If you or anyone you know has information they can share with us about the Black community in eastern King County please email us at info@eastsideheritgecenter.org or simply respond to this email.


Resources

The Coals of Newcastle - A Hundred Years of Hidden History. 2020 Edition. Published by Newcastle Historical Society. Newcastle, WA.

“Employing Racism: Black Miners, the Knights of Labor, and Company Tactics in the Coal Towns of Washington”. Jourdan Marshall . The Seattle Civil Rights and Labor Project. https://depts.washington.edu/civilr/black_miners.htm

"Oregon Improvement Company completes purchase of Seattle & Walla Walla Railroad Company and Seattle Coal & Transportation Company on November 26, 1880." John Calbick. Historylink.org. 2014. https://historylink.org/File/10920

Franklin: Everything you always wanted to know. Black Daimond History. 2011. https://blackdiamondhistory.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/franklin-everything-you-always-wanted-to-know/

African Americans used as strikebreakers at the Franklin coal mines starting on May 17, 1891. Greg Lange. Historylink.org. 2000. https://historylink.org/File/1941

“Knights of Labor.” History.com Editors. 2019. https://www.history.com/topics/19th-century/knights-of-labor

"Knights of Labor." Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/topic/Knights-of-Labor

Sunset Shopping Center

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and famil…

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and family.

Few shoppers trying to negotiate the parking lots and traffic bottlenecks of the Factoria Mall of today—officially Marketplace@Factoria--remember the modest and very useful little shopping center that preceded it in the same spot.  In 1949 Swedish immigrant Ole Chellson and his son Henry began construction of their Sunset Super Market in what is today’s mall’s extreme northwest corner.  Ole had driven an ice truck for the Leschi Ice Company; now he turned entrepreneur. The Factoria area had been initially logged in the 1890s and platted in 1911 with hopes it would become a major manufacturing center.  That dream died early, although in 1927 the old stove factory (the only actual factory that opened at Factoria) was purchased with the expectation that it would become marketing headquarters of a developing rabbit industry on the Eastside.  The plant was being equipped to handle fresh and canned rabbit meat and to cure and market the fur.

 The Chellsons were in the right spot at the right time, with a clear eye to the future. Ole Chellson had bought his parcel in 1940, just as the Sunset Highway—today’s I-90—east to Issaquah was being straightened and widened to four lanes to be ready for the July 2nd opening of the new Lacey Murrow Floating Bridge across Lake Washington. In 1949 Norwood Village, a community of over 100 homes largely for families of World War II veterans, was being developed across the highway, and on hills to the East, in Horizon View and Hilltop, homes were being built.  Eastgate and Lake Hills would arrive within a few more years. A Seattle Times reporter noted that “the Chellsons expect the district will develop even faster when the tolls come off the Lake Washington Floating Bridge.” 

Photo (above): Three stores occupying Sunset Shopping Center Shown, Factoria Supermarket, Olive's Sundries, and George Bondo - Realty Priced Right

Photo (above): Three stores occupying Sunset Shopping Center Shown, Factoria Supermarket, Olive's Sundries, and George Bondo - Realty Priced Right

By December 1950 the Sunset Super Market was open for business, and the following year a second building went up next door, occupied by Olive’s Sundries (Olive was Henry’s older sister) and by George Bondo Real Estate.  At some point one of the walls of the grocery held a huge mural, perhaps created by “Mother Chellson,”  illustrating life on Lake Washington.   On the market’s first anniversary, Ole and Henry advertised in the Mercer Islander a free television set and groceries “to select customers.” Also in 1950 the Sunset Drive-In Theater opened, the venue for the shopping center’s “annual” Easter egg hunt in 1951 for kids under 12 years old.

In 1952 Henry was recalled to the Marines and went off to the Korean War.  The grocery was leased out, and to keep himself busy Ole built a gas station in the little complex and operated it for Richfield Oil.  Over the years more small businesses were added: a barber shop, Bob Jones Surveyor, and Petersen’s Upholstery Shop.  The market got Russ Baker’s Russell’s Meats, and Olive’s Sundries became Maxine’s Café (“a Good Place to Eat” according to local ads) and later Dotty’s Lunch. There was even an electrical service and plant nursery, owned by Nap Nolet. The drive-in theater was a favorite draw.  An Issaquah resident who grew up in Hilltop Community recalls that the local teenagers who didn’t want to spend the money for an entry ticket would drive to the hill across the Sunset Highway, near the Unitarian church, and watch the movie from there, even though they couldn’t hear it.

Photo (above): Image of shelves in the Factoria Supermarket stuffed with food. The mural designed by Mrs. Chellson can be seen on the back wall.

Photo (above): Image of shelves in the Factoria Supermarket stuffed with food. The mural designed by Mrs. Chellson can be seen on the back wall.

But the Eastside’s population was exploding, and the local subdivisions offered their own larger supermarkets and related small businesses.  In 1977 the Factoria Square Mall opened right next to and to the South of  the drive-in and the little Sunset Shopping Center.  Among the three largest stores were a Safeway, an Ernst Home Center and a Pay-n-Save drugstore.   Several other buildings held smaller shops.  In 1980 a three-theater complex opened at Factoria on the site of the old drive-in. The handwriting was on the wall.

In 1999 Henry Chellson donated to the Eastside Heritage Center a trove of family  photos and memorabilia.  Unfortunately, the outset of coronavirus has closed access to that collection, and with local libraries and archives still closed, it’s not currently possible to trace the final stages of life of the Sunset Shopping Center.  It still lives on in the memories of those current residents who grew up in the Eastside of the 1950s and 60s and for whose families the modest grocery was a godsend, a spot to pick up a quart of milk, loaf of bread, or some fresh meat on the way home from work in Seattle or shopping at Bellevue Square.

Photo (above): In this aerial photograph you can see the back of the drive-screen with the little shopping center buildings laying between the theater and highway 405.

Photo (above): In this aerial photograph you can see the back of the drive-screen with the little shopping center buildings laying between the theater and highway 405.