Hennig

Bellevue - an Eastside Cornucopia!

BY BARB WILLIAMS, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

 

For thousands of years, Native Americans harvested the abundance of natural foods on the Eastside of Lake Washington. Good water, soil, and climate made Bellevue ideal for cultivated farming. Downtown was originally covered with huge, old-growth trees. Once logged, they were replaced with farmlands. Much of Bellevue’s success and growth is founded in its agricultural roots as an Eastside Cornucopia; a Horn of Plenty.

 

Hand drawn map of Bellevue, highlighting agricultural lands. Maker unknown, date unknown. (Reference - Vertical Files)

 

Early European settlers farmed to support their daily needs followed by cash crop farming for markets. A multitude of successful animal, fruit and vegetable farms sprang up and reached their peak between 1920 and 1942. The distribution of vegetables, fruits, bulb, and ornamental plants to local, national, and international markets was expanded after 1904 when the Northern Pacific Railroad connected Eastside produce to Seattle and beyond. Construction and operation of the Bellevue Growers Association Packing Shed (c. 1933) alongside the NPR railroad tracks at Midlakes significantly enhanced the transportation of the agricultural abundance of Bellevue farms.

In 1889, Ove and Mary Larsen gained title to 160 acres of land at Larsen Lake; a favorite gathering place for Native Americans who had harvested wild cranberries and blue huckleberries there. Ove did the same selling the berries for 50 cents a gallon. He worked at the Newcastle coal mines and farmed on weekends. In 1913, he sold half the property to the Aries brothers; Louis, Tony, and Albert from South Park, Seattle. Their property stretched from Larsen Lake to NE 8th. They grew cabbage, corn, squash, peas, wax beans, cauliflower, carrots, potatoes, celery, and iceberg lettuce; the latter for which they became famous. It was distributed to local, Philippine Islands, Alaska, and Yukon Territory markets. At peak production, they shipped seven railroad carloads of iceberg lettuce and 4,000 sacks of potatoes.   

Aries family harvesting lettuce, 1918. (OR/L 79.79.232)

In 1912, J. Kelfner sold Island Belle grapes grown on his farm at 108th Avenue and SE 8th Street. In the 1930s, he sold nine tons of grapes to one buyer. Adolph Hennig also grew Island Belle grapes at his vineyard on Clyde Hill. He designed and built equipment for pasteurizing and extracting juice. This proved beneficial in 1929 when fresh grapes were selling for only 1 cent per pound, but juice could be stored and sold year-round.

Mary Cruse and Grace Hill in Baker House daffodil garden, 1912. (2001.114.001)

Apples, cherries, pears, and strawberries were profitable cash crops. With the help of Japanese farmers between the 1920s to 1940s, the abundance of strawberries became a profitable and popular crop for Bellevue. Fields of strawberries stretched over the hills providing an incentive for the Strawberry Festival which began in 1925. After WWII, blueberries replaced strawberries as the popular fruit. In preserving this heritage, the City of Bellevue presently owns and operates U-Pick blueberry fields at Larsen Lake and Overlake blueberry farms.

Delkin Bulb Farms, c.1990s (2016.010.004)

Following the example of successful bulb farms in Bellingham, bulb farming was begun in Bellevue in the 1920s. The Boddy family cultivated vegetables and bulb plants growing cucumbers and Easter Lilies in their greenhouses on Hunt’s Point. William Cruse grew fruits and daffodils. His home, the Baker house, and gardens were located where the QFC now stands. Frederick J. Delkin, the owner and operator of Delkin Farms wholesale nursery business, established a warehouse accessible to the railroad tracks at Midlakes in 1926. At one time, he shipped an entire railroad carload of iris and narcissus bulbs to New York.

Perhaps this shipment included bulbs from Cecelia and Frederick Winters bulb farm at the Mercer Slough. Originally they grew vegetables, the abundance of which they sold to summer people at Beaux Arts. In 1924, they switched to iris and daffodil bulbs grown in greenhouses. Andre Ostbo bought several acres of their land in the 1930s and started a successful rhododendron business called “The King of Shrubs” for which he became famous. The Winters’ Spanish-eclectic style house, built in the late 1920s, is presently owned by the City of Bellevue and located on Bellevue Way. Remnants of the many greenhouses and escaped rhododendrons can be seen along the Ostbo Loop trail as can the sinking boiler house used to send steam through pipes to the greenhouses.

It is possible that Andre knew Cal and Harriet Shorts who bought a farm on Main Street in 1946. Their specialty was rhododendrons. In 1984, the Shorts donated their 7.5 acres and home to the City of Bellevue for a park and botanical garden. Today, the Bellevue Botanical Garden is open to the public year-round with the Shorts house at its center. Thanks to the generosity of the Shorts, and visionaries like Iris and Bob Jewett, the Garden is a treasure that reflects the bountiful agricultural possibilities and heritage of Bellevue: an Eastside Cornucopia. 

 

Resources:

Eastside Heritage Center archives

Lake Washington the Eastside. by Eastside Heritage Center, Arcadia Publishing, 2006

Bellevue, Its First 100 Years.  by Lucile McDonald,  Bellevue Historical Society, 2000

The Bellevue Botanical Garden: celebrating the first 15 years.  by Marty Wingate, The Bellevue Botanical Garden Society,  2007  

The Island Belle Story

BY margaret Laliberte, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

We don’t think of western Washington as prime grape-growing country today.  But during Bellevue’s early years as a farming community, seven different families grew grapes between about 1912 and the 1940s.  The Kelfner farm was located at the intersection of today’s SE 8th St and 108th Ave. N.E., near where Surrey Downs Park now stands.  North of it, R.T. Reid’s farm lay where the new light-rail station at 1112th and Main Street is nearing completion.  On the north side of the community, between today’s Bellevue Way and 100th Ave. N.E., the eastern slope of Clyde Hill was covered with vineyards owned over the years by the Clarke, Loughran, Hennig, Simpson and Borg families. Some of the farmers sold the grapes fresh, others made grape juice, and Borg’s Summit Winery sold wine, once Prohibition ended.

Photos from the time and ads in local newspapers touted the sale of “Island Belle” grapes, suggesting that they were special in some way unknown to us today. And in fact, they were.  Island Belle was Puget Sound’s very own grape variety.

2002.147.008 - Kelfner produce stand with sign announcing Island Belle grapes for sale.

The Island Belle story begins on little Stretch Island in Case Inlet on the western shore of southern Puget Sound.  In 1890 Lambert Evans settled there and began experimenting with grape cultivation.  He was joined on the island in 1899 by Adam Eckert, a New York grower, who developed a variety by crossing the Concord grape with a native North American grape.  Named Island Belle after Eckert’s elder daughter, the belle of a ball held on the island, the variety does well in the Puget Sound climate.  Very hardy, it withstands Fall frosts and can be harvested into December. It’s a versatile variety, making delicious juice and jelly.  Stretch Island eventually became the center of what was hopefully known as “Puget Sound’s grape belt,” including Harstine Island and the lands along Pickering Passage.  In 1918 the Island Belle Grape Growers’ Union was founded to market the area’s grapes in what was hoped to be, according to an article in Olympia’s Washington Standard newspaper, “a new Puget Sound industry.”  Island Belle became the most widely grown grape variety in Puget Sound country. The record harvest in 1920 returned $1,000 per acre (over $13,700 in today’s dollars). In 1928 California’s Oakland Tribune paper ran the story that Grace Mason had been crowned Miss Island Belle at the Island Belle Grape Grower’s celebration in faraway Shelton.  By 1930 Stretch Island supported two grape juice plants, owned by Eckert and a Charles Somers, who had bought the Evans property in 1918.

So it’s not surprising that Bellevue’s grape growers grew Island Belle grapes as well, although the harvest here typically began two weeks later than further to the south, where the climate was slightly more moderate.  John Kelfner bought his initial stock from a grower on Vashon Island and propagated his vines on his farm. When John Clarke began farming below Clyde Hill in 1919, he planted Island Belle and eventually opened Bellevue’s first grape juice plant.  (He later sold his land to the Hennig and Loughran families.)

2013.046.101 - Hennig grape juice ad.

The Depression years caused western Washington’s grape industry to crater, and it never fully recovered, although Robert Borg continued to grow his Island Belles on Clyde Hill into the 1940s.  A small remnant of the story remains alive today.  In 1978  Dick and Peggy Patterson founded their Hoodsport Winery on Hood Canal, the 16th winery to be licensed in the state.  They bought up virtually the entire harvest of Island Belle grapes from the Stretch Island vineyards, for which there was virtually no market at the time.  Over the years they expanded to create wines from other grapes as well.   In 1994 the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms announced it would drop Island Belle from its approved list of wine grape names and rename the grape the “Early Campbell.” But the Island Belle is tenacious. Hoodsport Winery is still in business, and among the offerings of varietal wines on its website is “Island Belle,” “a red wine bursting with flavors of fresh raspberries and cherries. A perfect wine for picnics and barbecues.”

2011.025.003 - Vineyard on the Loughran property in Bellevue, circa 1930.


Resources

Knauss, Suzanne, Culinary History of a Pacific Northwest Town, Eastside Heritage Center, 2007

McConaghy, Lorraine, ed., , Lucile McDonald’s Eastside Notebook, Marymoor Museum, 1993

Nick Rousso, Grape Farming in Washington, HistoryLink Essay #21302

Jack Swanson,   Puget Sound: Island Belle grape on endangered list, Kitsap Sun, April 19, 1994, https://products.kitsapsun.com/archive/1994/04-19/292256_puget_sound__island_belle_grape.html (retrieved October 18, 2021

Richard Bell, Island Belle Story, activerain.com/blogsview/790969/the-island-belle-story (retrieved October 18, 2021)