Chinook

Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside Part 2

European Contact: White Settlers

BY Barb williams, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Map, Tribal Ceded Areas in Washington State, Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Map, Tribal Ceded Areas in Washington State, Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.

In the early days, 6,000 or more years before White settlers came to Puget Sound and the Eastside, the Duwamish and Snoqualmie peoples were the dominant indigenous groups in the area. Despite intermittent raids and skirmishes between groups, the people were primarily peaceful. Their lives were supported by the bounty of the natural resources in the area, both plant and animal. The salmon returned each year to the creeks, rivers, lakes and saltwater bays. The villages were located close to these waterways which enabled easy transportation and acquisition of food. Duwamish longhouses were mostly located at the only waterway outlet from Lake Washington (originally known as Duwamish Lake) to Puget Sound. In 1849, Isaac Ebey came to the lake. He called it Lake Geneva. Several years later patriotic United States settlers moved into the area and changed the name to Lake Washington. Thus began White settlement that brought permanent changes to the region and to the lives of the indigenous peoples. White/Indian relationships were basically friendly prior to the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty in 1855.  However, following the signing, some Indian peoples became hostile once they realized their lands and traditional harvesting rights were being impacted by the White settlers. The Hudson’s Bay Company had come to trade with the Indians, but the United States had come to settle and take over their lands. 

Many indigenous groups spoke their own language, but all in this area belonged to the Salishan family whose parent language was known as, Chinook.  A new language was developed after 1792 when Captain Vancouver visited the Puget Sound area and the Hudson’s Bay Company began trading goods with the Indian people. The new language called Chinook jargon was created to facilitate communication between Indian peoples, fur traders, explorers and early settlers. Washington was the center of Chinook jargon that dated from about 1810. It consisted of an estimated 200 words of Chinook Indian language, mixed with Nootka, English, French and other languages. Some Native Americans used the new language and learned English, but others did not.

One of those who did not was Chief Sealth who had become the primary chief of the Puget Sound region. He never learned English or Chinook jargon because he felt it was beneath the dignity of the chief (himself) of his people. But he was always a friend of the White people. He wore a Hudson’s Bay blanket and was the first signer of the Point Elliott Treaty. He became a Catholic and held daily prayer meetings for his people. He was born in 1790 on Blake Island, a tribal camping ground, and passed away June 7, 1866. His daughter, Kakisimia, known as Princess Angeline, learned to speak English. It is said that she paddled her canoe through a blinding snowstorm to warn the garrison at Seattle of the impending Indian attack during the Battle of Seattle on January 6, 1856.

Unfulfilled Treaty promises granted to the Indian people in exchange for their lands stirred their discontent which resulted in the attack on Seattle. Hundreds of Indian warriors came to fight for their rights. However, after a day of fighting in which the U.S. Navy warship, the Decatur, fired its cannons killing many warriors, they retreated to the Eastside and over the Cascade Mountains from whence they had come. Leschi, the war-chief of the Nisquallies rallied his warriors for the attack on Seattle at a site on the western shores of Lake Washington. The site remained an Indian village called Fleaburg that was inhabited until the 1880s. Presently a Seattle suburb and a park called Leschi are located at the site. Other Indian warriors had gathered for the attack on Seattle at a large village site located on the eastern shores of Lake Washington near present-day Factoria.

OR/L 79.79.469 - Marie Louie or her sister Julia, Taken on the Lake Sammamish Road near Inglewood in 1914.

OR/L 79.79.469 - Marie Louie or her sister Julia, Taken on the Lake Sammamish Road near Inglewood in 1914.

As mentioned earlier, the battle was the result of discontent as the Indian people began to experience the true meaning of their leaders signing the Point Elliott Treaty at Mukilteo on January 22, 1855. The Treaty document, hastily presented to many Native American groups by Governor Isaac Stevens, was presented in a language that many Indian leaders, as signers, did not necessarily understand. It gave Indian lands to the United States in return for compensation and rights. However, it was not ratified for four years and the promises had not been fulfilled. Tensions began to build during the summer of 1855. This resulted in the Treaty Wars of 1855-1856. By then the population of lake people Indians had been reduced by 80%, a result of the small pox epidemic in the 1830s. Many of the people had been moved to reservations. Those who remained in their homes, discovered that they were not allowed to hunt and fish at their traditional grounds --- a “right” they thought had been promised to them in exchange for their lands. Some of those who stayed in place were Snoqualmie people. 

Marie Louie, a Snoqualmie Indian princess whose Indian name was Gotshoblo, was one who stayed. She was born at Tolt (Carnation) in 1798 and died in 1917. She was a friend of the White settlers and often helped deliver their babies, such as the Pickerings baby. Bessie Wilson Crane’s birth was facilitated by Marie Louie.  Her family lived in Issaquah. Bessie’s daughter’s birth was assisted by Marie Louie.  Bessie remembered how much “Aunt Louie” loved children and would often sing to them. As a medicinal herbalist for her people, she enjoyed teaching pioneer children about the ways of the woods and streams. She was a well-known figure as she paddled her big canoe from Issaquah on Lake Sammamish, through the Sammamish Slough, south on Lake Washington to the Black River that connected to the Duwamish River, and into Elliott Bay to Seattle. There she sold the rag rugs she made from settlers’ worn out clothing. Her round trip took her almost a month to complete. She was approaching Seattle on June 7, 1889 when 32 blocks of Seattle’s business and commercial district burned. Her friend, Arthur Denny, warned her about the fire and saved her from coming ashore. Always helpful to White settlers, she walked several times in her bare feet to Yakima and back bringing with her new hops plants for the hops farmers on the Eastside.  

Following the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty, many Indian people needed a way to make a living. Some worked in laundry and lumber while providing a valuable workforce that contributed mightily to the successful growth of Seattle. Some came from miles away to work as paid help for the hops farmers in Issaquah, Fall City, and Auburn. These were good jobs for the men, women, and children. Others helped White settlers transport their provisions in their big canoes. It is said that the canoes could carry as much as two tons of goods. Indian guides showed White settlers water and land passageways and how to survive in the new land. In his journal, Reverend R. W. Summers writes that on July 17, 1871 Indian guides took him by canoe to their sacred place, Snoqualmie Falls. The Perrigo family set up a trading post in Redmond. They traded with members of four different Indian tribes and used Indian ponies to expand their business to farms between Redmond, Tolt and Novelty Hill.

L 88.029.003.7 - Snoqualmie Valley Native American hop farmers and workers, 1890.

L 88.029.003.7 - Snoqualmie Valley Native American hop farmers and workers, 1890.

Some Indians were both hostile and friendly to White people. Chief Patkanim of the Snoqualmie people was one of them. In 1849 he and his warriors attacked the settlers at Fort Nisqually, but during the Indian Wars of 1855-1856, he gathered eighty warriors of his tribe to help the White people. However, the Castro family of Issaquah was not so fortunate when they were murdered by Indian people as revenge for Indians that had been killed by White people. The years following the signing of the Point Elliott Treaty in 1855 resulted in a mixed relationship for both the Indian people and White settlers living in the Puget Sound and Eastside regions.

As more and more White settlers came to the region bringing with them their values and need for wood, coal, farming and industry, the area was greatly changed. In 1916 the Government Locks were built to connect the northern end of Lake Washington to Puget Sound. Because Lake Washington is higher in elevation than Puget Sound, the water levels throughout the Eastside dropped  9 to 12 feet. This greatly impacted the Indian peoples. The Wapato plant they depended on for food disappeared and the Black River all but dried up causing the large village on its banks to be abandoned and the southern water link to Elliott Bay to be blocked. Instead, the Cedar River began to flow into Lake Washington and the lake drained north past the University of Washington through the locks to Puget Sound. By this time many Native Americans were living on reservation lands. Some groups had been recognized by the United States government which entitled them to government programs and aid. Others had set up their own businesses, graduated from schools and universities and had become part of the new way of life.

However, there is one group, the Duwamish, that is still awaiting United States Government Recognition. At present there is a movement towards gaining Recognition and a petition (#StandWithTheDuwamish) circulating asking for support towards that end. The Duwamish people have built a beautiful community center near the mouth of the Duwamish River on the western side. They offer public programs, artworks and a wonderful place in which to connect with their culture.

Let us remember the Indian peoples who first inhabited these lands. They deserve our respect and gratitude for the gifts they have given to this region we all call “home”.  


For more information about the Indigenous communities of Washington state, please visit the American Library Association at the link below.


Resources

Books:

Fish, Edwards R. Past at Present at Issaquah Washington, copyright 1967.

Craine, Bessie Wilson Squak Valley, 1983.

McConaghy, Lorraine New Land, North of the Columbia, copyright 2011.

Thrush, Coll Native Seattle, University of Washington Press, 2007.

A Publication of the Seattle Times A Hidden Past articles 12/1997 to 1/2000.

Annotated bibliography of the following books: 

Dupar, Robert W. Meydenbauer History, 1989.

Karolevitz, Robert F. Kemper Freeman, Sr. and the Bellevue Story, 1984.

Eastside Heritage Center collections:

C.T. Conover, three articles that begin with the title, Just Cogitating: Puget Sound Indian Customs, Notes About Puget Sound Indians, Chief Seattle Had Dignified Appearance, Puget Sound Indian Tribes.

David Buerge article, Indian Lake Washington, The Weekly, 8/1 - 8/7 1984.

Frank Lynch article, Seattle is Named after a Slaveholder, Seattle Scene.

Pat Sandbo Salish Traditional Life Skills, based on a presentation by Steve & Dorothy Phillip.

Paul Shukovsky article, Duwamish Tribe Fights for Recognition, Seattle P-I 9/5/2008.

Nancy Way article, Perrigos start first inn and trading post near Redmond, Redmond Sammamish Valley News, August 16, 1995.

Charles W. Smith book chapter, “An Old Quaker Magazine”.

Photograph of Marie Louie inscription

Newspaper articles:

The Seattle Times June 7, 2021, Opinion, Give Duwamish Tribe Overdue Recognition

The Seattle Times June 13, 2021, Paid Advertising, Who Are the Duwamish?

Website:

Treaty history and interpretation. Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife. (n.d.). https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/management/tribal/history.

Native Americans of Puget Sound and the Eastside Part One

Early Years: Pre-European Contact

BY Barb williams, EASTSIDE HERITAGE CENTER VOLUNTEER

Native American stories often begin with the words “In the Early Days Long Ago when the world was very young-----”. This story about the indigenous peoples that inhabited the shores of Lake Washington and the Eastside begins thousands of years ago before white settlers came to the region. The story is grounded in years of research and oral histories.

The area was beautiful with an abundance of natural resources. Freshwater flowed into Lake Washington from the many creeks along its shores. Water was plentiful as was the flora and fauna found along its banks and hills. The Black River at the south end of the lake was the only outlet to the saltwater. It connected to the Duwamish River that emptied into Elliott Bay. These rivers provided the passageway along which the adult salmon returned annually to the lake to spawn and for the young salmon to begin their journey downstream to the saltwater. This critical feature provided the people with a food source upon which they depended. For this reason, they often built their villages at the mouths of creeks where the salmon spawned. The landlocked Kokanee salmon that inhabited the lake were prized by other groups who travelled from the north to fish and return home with the tender meat. Arthur Ballard, a resident of Auburn, Washington, called these indigenous people, The Lake People or hah-chu-AHBSH. HAH -chu means “lake” and ahbsh means “people of”. Most of these people belonged to the Duwamish or Snoqualmie; sub groups of the Coast Salish. They spoke Chinook jargon, but also their own local dialect. Many of the place-names in use today originated with the names of these peoples.

Lake Washington before water was lowered, 1915. (L96.025.020)

Lake Washington before water was lowered, 1915. (L96.025.020)

Archaeological sites on the Eastside have revealed much about these early Native Americans. One of the oldest sites is at Tokul Creek flats which is at the confluence of Tokul Creek and the Snoqualmie River, below the falls. According to archaeologist, Astrid Blukis Onat, who studied the site in 1967, the area was used for over 2,500 years. Another important site is the one at Marymoor Park situated along the Sammamish Slough in Redmond. More than a thousand artifacts were found revealing a hunting civilization: arrowheads, blades, and awls used to punch holes in hides were among the items discovered there. Along the Black River two villages were found. The first was inhabited from about 1790 to 1825 and the second between 1850 to 1856. There have been eighteen sites studied around the shores of Lake Washington. Each village site revealed dwelling(s), artifacts and had its own burial ground. The tu-oh-beh-BAHBSH site near Thorton Creek revealed one house and access to the large cranberry bog where Northgate is presently located. The TAHB-tah-byook site is located at the mouth of Juanita Creek with possibly seven houses. They enjoyed feasting on what was considered some of the best Wapato in the Puget Sound area. The Wapato, often referred to as the Indian Potato, was a staple food plant for the native Americans. The root was roasted like a potato and was a source of starch. The SAH-tsa-kah-LUBSH (head of the slough people) had three houses on the Mercer Slough and close to present-day Factoria. It was an important site being the terminus at the lake for the trail that lead to Lake Sammamish, onward to Snoqualmie prairies where trading took place, and to areas east of the Cascade Mountains. It was along this trail that one hundred Yakima and Wenatchee Indian warriors came in 1855 to fight the Battle of Seattle. The village site and its headman, Che-shi-ahud (Lake John), sheltered the warriors. To the northwest at Meydenbauer Bay, the villagers caught peamouth fish in Meydenbauer Creek. The long marsh that stretched south of the village for three miles was a productive natural resource. Women dug cattail roots for food and used the leaves to make mats often used for house construction when the people left the winter houses for their summer harvesting grounds. The marsh grasses along with twigs and bark provided materials for baskets woven by the women. Some were so tightly woven, they could hold water and were used for cooking. Volcanic rocks were heated in the fire and then placed in the water at intervals to keep the water hot. In this way the food was cooked or boiled. Some foods such as salmon were dried. This was the case at the village site called, shu-bahl-tu-AHBSH (drying house people) located at May Creek where the salmon runs were plentiful. The fish were dried on racks or cured in the smoke houses. 

A popular deer hunting area was a field on Mercer Island where the deer were driven across the water to a location near Beaux Arts. Here they came ashore exhausted from their swim and were killed. The Native Americans hunted on Mercer Island, but never stayed overnight due to a belief that a monster lived at the top of the island and the island sank into the lake at night. This idea may have originated with the changing water levels due to seasonal flooding, landslides and other natural causes. Presently, there are two known upright, underwater forests that slid into the lake: one at the north end of the island and the other at the south end.  

A large western red cedar bark berry-picking basket. (C2-64)

A large western red cedar bark berry-picking basket. (C2-64)

There was much trading among local and outside groups. Trade pathways from Elliott Bay to east of the Cascade mountains developed. Northern peoples came to trade, visit and raid the villages for slaves and goods. Marriages were common between villages and peoples of different groups. During the summer months, there was much celebrating and villagers could be found at their summer harvest sites. When the salmon runs came in the fall, everybody worked. During the winter months, the people returned to their winter homes, processed the summer’s harvest, made items for use and danced and sang in celebration of the ancestors and spirits.

The Lake People, like many indigenous peoples, developed a clever technology to support their daily needs. From basketry, tools, clothing, canoes, house construction, hunting tools and so much more, they relied on the natural resources in their environment. A specialized duck harpoon was created that had two prongs that caught in the feathers of the ducks. When the migrating flocks of waterbirds came to the lake and marsh, the men set fires on clay hearths in their canoes. The flickering of those fires could be seen at night along the shorelines. The fires drew the birds out of the marshes whereupon they were ensnared in large nets made from the twine of stinging nettle plants, or caught with the duck harpoon. 

Much of the local Native American Pre-European Contact history is observed or spoken. Thanks to researchers and contributors, it is being discovered and valued for the wonderful lessons the Lake People of Lake Washington and Puget Sound have to teach us. Over all, life seemed good for the people and resources plentiful during this historic time.  


Resources

Bohan, Heidi. “The People of Cascadia: Pacific Northwest American History” c. 2009

Buerge, David. “Indian Lake Washington”, article in The Weekly, August 1 - August 7, 1984.

Margeson, Doug. “History underfoot: Eastside abounds in ancient Native American camps and villages”, article in Living, Wednesday, September 22, 1993.

Williams, Jacqueline and Goldie Silverman. “Beyond Smoked Salmon”, article.


Part of our Award Winning Eastside Stories Series