Kenmore

Cold War Defense on the Eastside Part 2: Kenmore and Bothell’s Repurposed Missile Launch Site

Eastside Stories - Check out the previous article here

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and …

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and family.

The last Cold War Defense article discussed one of eleven bases established to house and launch missiles on the eastside. Bases like the one that existed in Redmond were designed for defense against attacks from Soviet aircraft and warheads. These missiles were a part of the Nike Project which designed state-of-the art warheads to stop enemy aircraft, eliminate missiles, and lead us to victory. Although the Redmond base was abandoned and soon became a place for urban explorers, ghost stories, and nefarious activities another near-by base remains active today, in a way, continuing to aid in national safety. This base was known as S-03.

The S-03 base located nearly between Kenmore and Bothell at 130 228th SW Street is still active as the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) headquarters of the Pacific Northwest. The unassuming group of one-story buildings masks a large underground complex, although it is hard to say what was built for the Nike Missile Defense System and what has been added since then. Missile launch systems have been removed from the surface, but the space occupied remains the same. S-03 had a control center as well where administrative work and missile guidance took place. This space did not continue to be used by the government though. The control and administrative center of the Kenmore/Bothell base is now Horizon View Park, located on 47th Avenue. All of the original buildings and structures have been removed so nothing of the original Nike control site remains.

Opening in 1956 and closing its doors in 1964, the base had a short lifespan which doesn’t quite line up with any one major political event making the reason for its short existence up for debate. Opening before Sputnik makes it unlikely, that this advance triggered the base’s creation. Sputnik is the Russian word for satellite and also, the common name given the first satellite ever, launched by the USSR in 1957. Sputnik caused panic and anxiety as Westerners feared that the USSR had surpassed them in technological advancement and some even believed that the satellite would allow for attacks or surveillance across the globe. Of course, neither of these scenarios ended up being true and the satellite only remained aloft for about three weeks.

The S-03 site had eight missile launchers located at the facility, where they existed on the surface is now used by FEMA, replaced by more relevant structures and equipment. There were eleven sites like this across the Puget Sound area, but eight bases were chosen not to be converted to the from Zeus style missiles to Hercules Nike Missiles which may explain the closing of the site. Quick development of superior missiles meant that technology was always changing but where there was money to develop there may not have been money to upgrade existing sites. Either way, the Seattle Area Defense system, designed to protect financial, industrial, and transportation centers of the American Northwest was built and done away with fairly quickly overall due to changes in the political climate.

Within a few years of their opening the USA and USSR were already aware that de-escalation was necessary if each county wanted to have an economy that wasn’t fully war-based. The S-03 Nike Missile Base shut down before official talks known as the Strategic Arms Limitations Talks (SALT) were proposed by the United States in 1966, let alone begun in 1969. These talks were successful overtime, with the Anti-Ballistic Missile Treaty (ABM Treaty) being signed by Richard Nixon and Leonid Brezhnev in May 1972. By this time though, most of the Nike Missile Bases had already been decommissioned including S-03.

The Cold War was a time when people’s fears and anxieties got the best of them and often escalated situations like nuclear production without cause. The Seattle Area Defense System may have been a part of this or, its anti-ballistic missiles were said to be the only thing stopping an imminent attack. In the end the USA and the USSR both produced enough nuclear warheads to destroy the world many times over. Most of the sites, like the Kenmore/Bothell site at S-03, were short lived and constructed to last for less than a decade. At least S-03 found a new life as a center for FEMA, giving us a different kind of safety net, and perhaps one more useful in a place with the highest concentration of active volcanoes in the USA. The FEMA headquarters here is prepared to react to volcanoes, earthquakes, and other man-made or natural disasters which seem much more imminent than a Soviet attack on American soil ever was.

Resources

Eastside Heritage Center Archives

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/nike-nuclear-missile-site-s1314

http://warbirdsnews.com/warbird-articles/abandoned-nike-missile-bases-united-states.html

https://www.historylink.org/File/9711

http://choosewashingtonstate.com/research-resources/about-washington/brief-state-history/

http://ed-thelen.org/MMTravis.html

https://www.nwnews.com/news/bothell-s-nike-hill-home-to-regional-fema-headquarters/article_bdc1b216-7eb5-534e-857a-987eab0976f4.html

https://www.californiademocrat.com/news/news/story/2020/aug/24/army-veteran-recognized-thwarting-threat-against-president-nixon/838731/

https://www.britannica.com/technology/Nike-missile

https://www.britannica.com/event/Anti-Ballistic-Missile-Treaty

Eastside Stories: Eastside Cities

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and famil…

Eastside Stories is our way of sharing Eastside history through the many events, people places and interesting bits of information that we collect at the Eastside Heritage Center. We hope you enjoy these stories and share them with friends and family.

Cities. Almost all of us on the Eastside today live in one. We may take our cities for granted, but they have not always existed—people had to create them. States are the foundation of the country, and counties are necessary subdivisions of states. Cities are, well, kind of optional.

When Finn Hill joined Kirkland in 2011, one of the last large bits of urban unincorporated area on the Eastside came under the benevolent arm of city hall. Most Eastsiders now live in one of 14 cities in the urbanized areas and five in the rural areas. The boundaries of cities often seem to make little sense, and they sit on top of a patchwork of school and other special districts.

If we were designing a system of governance from scratch we certainly would not end up with anything like the current map of the Eastside. So, how did we end up with our current array of cities?

Cities are formed when a group of residents petition their county government. Once a boundary for a proposed city is agreed upon, residents within that boundary vote on incorporation. Residents can also vote to annex to an existing city, if that city is willing to absorb them.

In the early days of the Eastside, pioneers had few expectations for government services, so cities were slow to form. It can be perfectly fine to live in unincorporated areas without city government. County government provides basic services, and other services are provided by special utility and fire districts and private associations.

Scene on Front Street in Issaquah circa 1910

Scene on Front Street in Issaquah circa 1910

The first wave of incorporations happened in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Issaquah is the oldest city on the Eastside, dating back to 1892 (originally named Gilman). It was a coal mining town that made a successful transition to railroad work. Snoqualmie (1903), Bothell (1909) and North Bend (1909) all had their roots in the early railroad routes and as logging and agricultural commercial centers.

Kirkland, which incorporated in 1905, was slated to become the “Pittsburgh of the West.” By the time Peter Kirk’s big industrial plans fell through, Kirkland had become a good sized settlement, and it made sense to form a city. Redmond, had its roots as a timber and railroad center, and incorporated its growing downtown in 1912. The farming and railroad towns of Carnation and Duvall incorporated in 1912 and 1913, respectively.

In 1910, when the postcard was mailed, Redmond was big enough not only to have its own souvenir cards, but also a local post office to mail them from.

In 1910, when the postcard was mailed, Redmond was big enough not only to have its own souvenir cards, but also a local post office to mail them from.

Then city formation on the Eastside ground to a halt for decades. Growth was slow, as mining and timber activity wound down and few new large industries moved to the still-remote area. Some larger settlements, like those around the mines of Newcastle, disbanded. Bellevue was still just a one-street village, and the vast commercial areas of Overlake were farms and forests. Not much need for new cities.

Then in the 1950s, the Eastside sprang to life.

The new bridge across Mercer Island opened the area to large scale homebuilding, and Bellevue began to resemble a real city. In 1953 Bellevue incorporated with just under 6,000 residents. Feeling Bellevue breathing down their necks, the Points Communities formed themselves into four separate cities: Clyde Hill (1953), Hunts Point (1955), Medina (1955), Yarrow Point (1959). And the tiny artists colony of Beaux Arts Village formed itself into a town in 1954.

Eugene Boyd and Phil Reilly celebrate the incorporation of Bellevue in 1953

Eugene Boyd and Phil Reilly celebrate the incorporation of Bellevue in 1953

Then another 35 years of quiet. Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond, Issaquah and Bothell gradually annexed surrounding neighborhoods, but many pockets of residential area were perfectly happy with the benign neglect that county government offered.

But along came a less benign force: the Growth Management Act of 1989, which required extensive planning and encouraged higher density development. Nothing gets the attention of otherwise complacent citizens like the prospect of changes in land use, and within a few years, the Eastside had four more cities seeking to control their destiny: Woodinville (1993), Newcastle (1994), Kenmore (1998), Sammamish (1999).

In many respects, cities are the ultimate democratic institutions: groups of free citizens banding together to form a local government that will collect taxes from them and provide services they ask for. The chaotic looking map of the Eastside is the result of tens of thousands of individual decisions by Eastsiders about how they want to shape their neighborhoods. Individual cities take on the character of their residents over time and become unique places.

From chaos comes community.

All images from the collection of the Eastside Heritage Center. If you are interested in obtaining images from our collection, which has extensive holdings from Eastside cities, contact us at collections@eastsideheritagecenter.org


Learn more about the Eastside. Books available from Eastside Heritage Center include:

Lake Washington: The Eastside

Bellevue: the Post World War II Years

Our Town, Redmond

Medina

Hunts Point

Bellevue: Its First 100 Years


Our Mission To steward Eastside history by actively collecting, preserving, and interpreting documents and artifacts, and by promoting public involvement in and appreciation of this heritage through educational programming and community outreach.

Our Vision To be the leading organization that enhances community identity through the preservation and stewardship of the Eastside’s history.

Eastside Heritage Center is supported by 4 Culture

Eastside Heritage Center is supported by 4 Culture